25 March 2014

Iron Curtain Trail (EuroVelo 13) revisited

... or at least the almost 20km part between Bratislava suburb Devinska Nova Ves and the village Vysoka pri Morave.

I think it is one of the most beautiful natural reserve areas around Bratislava. The nature is truly stunning with lush green meadows, monumental lonesome trees, willows by the water, singing birds. A wonderful place to go for picknick or just a slow bike ride with enjoying the sounds and sights.

The pictures below were all taken on a sunny day in early spring, so most trees are still without leaves. In late spring and summer it is even greener and the shade of trees makes even the warmest summer days very pleasant.








20 March 2014

Bike shops in Bratislava


When you find yourself in Bratislava and you need something fixed, here is a map of bike shops in Bratislava, complete with opening hours and phone numbers. Just in case...

I can recommend Kaktus Bike - I have only the best experience with their service. They are probably the largest shop in the city. They may be a little more expensive but still it's cheap compared to west european or american prices. They usually have long waiting list during the cycling season, but will do immediate repair at extra cost.

I've had some bad experience with Sport servis in Podunajske Biskupice, so I steer clear of their repair shop. However they are well stocked with parts and the sales people are very nice.

In case you need some repair done on sunday, your only choice is the Green bike. They are open on sunday from 9 'till 14 (2pm).


Bike shops in Bratislava

11 January 2014

Iron Curtain Trail (EuroVelo 13) in Slovakia

I toured this section of EuroVelo 13 from Moravsky Sv.Jan, through Gajary, Zahorska Ves and Vysoka pri Morave as a one day trip in september 2013. I kept hearing from the re-election campaign of Bratislava Region chairman Pavol Frešo how under his leadership the EV13 along the Morava river has been restored. I wanted to see what has been done there. I was very disappointed to see that only a couple of new signs had been placed, which were already destroyed...
old border guard chip seal road in desolate state
in some sections only dirt and mud

or rough gravel
new navigation signs have been destroyed
by stupid youngsters from nearby villages
gate that should allow only cyclists and horse riders
is difficult to cross even with a lightly loaded bicycle
it is often easier to pass by
more destroyed signs

the cycle way on the embankment is often so rough
that it's easier to take the road on the right
later the cycle way on embankment disappeared completely
information panel from 20 years ago rotting near the road
PS: I hope I haven't deterred you from visiting Slovakia or riding the Iron Curtain Trail. Just be prepared for worse roads and a bit more adventure. I hope the pictures will help you choose the right equipment (i.e. wide tires) and enjoy your trip. The nature is beautiful with lush meadows, willows near the river and plenty options for wild camping.

6 January 2014

Risks for travellers

The area around Bratislava and western Slovakia is generally safe. Don't expect any raiding bands of robbers and thiefs in the woods or gangs in cities at night (*). Pickpockets are most common in public transport vehicles in larger cities. 

When wild camping, make sure you lock your bike and take any valuables with you in tent. As the saying goes "opportunity makes a thief" so if you follow common sense, you should be allright.

People aren't bad, but if they smell that you have a lot of money, some of them will try to make you share some of it. Maybe accidentally miscalculate price in resturant or in a taxi...

However the biggest risk are the car drivers. If you're coming from the western part of Europe (France, Austria, Germany, even Czech republic) you will notice how careless the drivers are. They won't give you much space when passing, and will pass in dangerous situations. There are areas where motorway isn't finished yet (or simply isn't available at all) and all traffic must take primary road. It is best to avoid such busy roads whenever possible.

The quality of road surface is often miserable. Potholes, pothole patches, manhole covers. Moreover only some roads have shoulder wider than 50cm. The majority of roads only have something like 20cm shoulder and cyclists must use the car lane.
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* there are some ethnic communities in the central and eastern part of Slovakia, living in very poor conditions and they have quite different sense of what's good and bad. I would avoid those areas. There were rumors of some children attacking cyclists with stones...

Must see in Bratislava

If you're just passing through Bratislava, and don't have much time, deffinitely go see

  • Hviezdoslav square (the best ice-cream in town is in Lucullus (B) on the corner of Hviezdoslav square and Venturska)
  • the baroque building of the National theater (C)
  •  if you need you can visit Tourist information office (D)
  • the historical town center, the Main and the Franciscan square (E), when you're there you can go take a look at other streets around (Venturska, Panska), it won't take you much time.
  • Michael's gate (F) the last remaining of 3 medieval entrances to the city
  • the castle (G) (entrance to the castle gardens is free). The castle offers beautiful view of the whole city and on the east terrace there are benches in shade of old trees and you can get beverages from a restaurant which is also there. 
The suggested route is only 2.5km long and Zamocka street gets you to the castle without too steep grade.


If you have more time, I would recomment also visiting also
  • the Blue church of St.Elisabeth (D) which is built in unique secession style and unlike any other church I have ever seen.
  • Grosslingova high school building (E) by the same architect and in similar style. The blue church originally served as the school's chapel.
  • St.Martin's cathedral (H) where several Austro-Hungarian emperors (including Maria-Theresa) were coronated, and Kapitulska street which is a beautiful quiet street and looks like it could look a hundred years ago.

Bratislava general info

Bratislava is located in Slovakia, on a strategic point from a cycle-tourer's perspective, exactly on the intersection of two EuroVelo routes: EV 13 the "Iron Curtain Trail and EV 6 the "Danube cycle way". It lies near the border with Austria and border with Hungary is just a few kilometers south-east.


Bratislava is the capital of Slovakia with about 400 to 600 thousand inhabitants (it depends if you count also surrounding villages and people who moved in unofficially from other parts of the country in search for employment).

Typical for the city are historical town center, hill-top castle, and the so called UFO bridge. The town center is quite small, maybe 1km in diameter, but well restored and full of (mostly expensive) restaurants, shops, souvenir kiosks, but also cafés and pubs.


When you're already in the town center, you can use this opportunity to visit Tourist information office at the corner of Klobucnicka and Ursulinska street. There are also signs to guide you there. Opening hours are 9.00am - 7.00pm in peak season (April - October) and 9.00am - 6.00pm in low season.